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For the beta, for the fitness, for the fun

Everyone strap in, sit down, and listen up- I've got a lot to catch you guys up on. I've been on the road going on a month, and (I know) it's been pretty complete radio silence. The saga started as always over a rainy memorial day week in the Black Hills, with the ever-present Aleasha McKickass. Baldy and the surrounding boulders delivered as always, leaving our tips ragged, egos bruised, and hair greasy. We took what felt like a deeper dive than ever into South Dakotan bouldering, using countless blocks of chalk to put up lines that felt just a hair short of first ascents. We suffered through rain, cold, and strange altitude sickness- as any climbers worth their salt should. When Aleasha had to head back to the midwest, quiver of sends in hand, I drove into Tensleep canyon with blue-streaked limestone in mind. Soon (and brace yourself, I know it's shocking) I even ended up with a long term, everyday, hell or high water partner (emphasis on high and water). En…
Recent posts

Partners from faraway places, walmart muffins, and moments of intense gastro-intestinal distress

After a much briefer hiatus, here comes a brand spankin' new life update. Although I'm still in the Salt Lake City vicinity, American Fork is old news. It was fun, historic, and humbling, but partners weren't plentiful (anyone sensing a theme of this trip?), and the climbing all ended in a masochistic layback roof crack. So the van was packed up on a whim, and pointed south to the promised land, otherwise known as Maple Canyon. Yeah, that's right, the place with the cobbles. Cliffs made out of millions of smaller rocks. No friction whatsoever. Routes with twenty plus draws, and more kneebars than even the laziest of sport climbers could find in Rifle. I'm terrible at this stuff. No power required, nothing tweaky in any sense of the word, just straight overhung endurance. Though the first week or so was somewhat frustrating, things have begun to look up as I've started to learn the style, and gotten used to being constantly (and I mean constantly) pumped.
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Repeated punting, mormon bumper stickers, and when to say enough is enough

It's been awhile since the last post, but I promise all is well; I (and, more importantly, the van) am well intact, and still wrestling up rocks and calling it fun. I had planned to save this post until after a send of my most noteworthy goal of the trip, "Throwing the Houlihan". And man, was I close to writing that victorious entry. Each of the four times I touched the finish jug, my mind began to imagine what I'd write. "I was inspired by Todd Skinner's Wild Iris masterpiece ever since I saw it in a video while still a young gym climber...". But I guess it wasn't to be. Early in my time at the Iris, I found some great partners willing to belay my heartbreaking send attempts, but after an amazing newlywed couple left back home for St. Louis, I was high and dry. I would spend my days sitting under the route reading, hoping for a belayer to come by, and hoping with even greater intensity I would be warm and ready to give a good attempt should su…