It's been awhile since the last post, but I promise all is well; I (and, more importantly, the van) am well intact, and still wrestling up rocks and calling it fun. I had planned to save this post until after a send of my most noteworthy goal of the trip, "Throwing the Houlihan". And man, was I close to writing that victorious entry. Each of the four times I touched the finish jug, my mind began to imagine what I'd write. "I was inspired by Todd Skinner's Wild Iris masterpiece ever since I saw it in a video while still a young gym climber...". But I guess it wasn't to be. Early in my time at the Iris, I found some great partners willing to belay my heartbreaking send attempts, but after an amazing newlywed couple left back home for St. Louis, I was high and dry. I would spend my days sitting under the route reading, hoping for a belayer to come by, and hoping with even greater intensity I would be warm and ready to give a good attempt should such a rare occurrence come about. I didn't get in much climbing for those weeks, and gradually the process lost its appeal. Even after a hiatus from Wyoming to meet with some old friends in Rocky Mountain National Park, belayers didn't appear. I've never been that obsessed with a route- I began to lose sleep rehearsing beta in my head each night, hoping that, like the infamous H orst boys, I'd be able to send such a notorious line before exiting my teenage years.
Ironically enough, it took the discovery of a quick belay towards the end of a day filled with tense waiting for me to be motivated to throw in the towel. The interaction I had with the man who gave me that catch is something I'm still trying to wrap my head around, but I think I can sum it up by saying he was one of the most morally bankrupt people I've ever met. I don't feel good about even typing the things he said to me, but I've never witnessed that kind of misogyny from another human being before. And the worst part? I didn't say a word to counter it. I needed the catch, after all, and a send was far more important than any other values I hold, so I smiled and nodded through a barrage of absolute unadulterated hate. For that I still feel terrible- that was my moment to stand for something important within this community and culture I care so much about, and I completely failed to do so. So in light of that, and an ever-heightening desire to explore beyond the comforts of last summer's home, I'm now doing a stint on the unforgiving slick limestone of American Fork Canyon, outside Salt Lake City, in order to train old-school style for the brutal enduro routes I anticipate at my next stop, Mt. Charleston. The climbing here is technical, steep, and incredibly pumpy- in other words, the perfect thing to supplement a month of one finger power spouldering on Wyoming dolomite. The grades I'm capable of on this stone aren't especially noteworthy, but I can feel my sport climbing prowess increasing (and skin rapidly diminishing) each day I spend on Boone Speed test pieces in Hell Cave or Cannabis Wall. The people here have been great (one went so far as to dive into violent rapids in order to save my waterlogged climbing pack), and each day has been exhausting, painful, and nothing short of wonderful. I look forward to my next week or so here, and will hopefully be able send some historic lines after the benefit of today's rest.
As far as the artsy section of this blog, however, my most recent piece of writing has yet to be finished, but after reading the novel "Life is Elsewhere" and the verse of Pablo Neruda, I've been inspired to try and improve my ability to compose poetry. I've tried to write poems for awhile, but they've always been...well...pretty terrible. Though I don't claim my most recent creations to be anything outstanding, the've at least reached a point to where I can share a few without extreme measures of embarrassment. So, until I figure out where my next story is going, here are a few pieces I feel pretty good about. 'Till next time!
Ironically enough, it took the discovery of a quick belay towards the end of a day filled with tense waiting for me to be motivated to throw in the towel. The interaction I had with the man who gave me that catch is something I'm still trying to wrap my head around, but I think I can sum it up by saying he was one of the most morally bankrupt people I've ever met. I don't feel good about even typing the things he said to me, but I've never witnessed that kind of misogyny from another human being before. And the worst part? I didn't say a word to counter it. I needed the catch, after all, and a send was far more important than any other values I hold, so I smiled and nodded through a barrage of absolute unadulterated hate. For that I still feel terrible- that was my moment to stand for something important within this community and culture I care so much about, and I completely failed to do so. So in light of that, and an ever-heightening desire to explore beyond the comforts of last summer's home, I'm now doing a stint on the unforgiving slick limestone of American Fork Canyon, outside Salt Lake City, in order to train old-school style for the brutal enduro routes I anticipate at my next stop, Mt. Charleston. The climbing here is technical, steep, and incredibly pumpy- in other words, the perfect thing to supplement a month of one finger power spouldering on Wyoming dolomite. The grades I'm capable of on this stone aren't especially noteworthy, but I can feel my sport climbing prowess increasing (and skin rapidly diminishing) each day I spend on Boone Speed test pieces in Hell Cave or Cannabis Wall. The people here have been great (one went so far as to dive into violent rapids in order to save my waterlogged climbing pack), and each day has been exhausting, painful, and nothing short of wonderful. I look forward to my next week or so here, and will hopefully be able send some historic lines after the benefit of today's rest.
As far as the artsy section of this blog, however, my most recent piece of writing has yet to be finished, but after reading the novel "Life is Elsewhere" and the verse of Pablo Neruda, I've been inspired to try and improve my ability to compose poetry. I've tried to write poems for awhile, but they've always been...well...pretty terrible. Though I don't claim my most recent creations to be anything outstanding, the've at least reached a point to where I can share a few without extreme measures of embarrassment. So, until I figure out where my next story is going, here are a few pieces I feel pretty good about. 'Till next time!
-
Each time the trail curved
he wondered what could come about
if he disobeyed
striving off
against the marked flow
of feet before-
through trees
tight as sisters sharing fluttering gossip
and voluptuous bushes
plucking at his clothes, saying
"Stay, stay
the future will encounter you
as readily on the ground
beside us
as it could beyond
the trembling horizon."
Walking towards nothing
as the sky folds inwards
and clouds pull
crisp, clear rain
from the ground beneath.
As the soil
falls in deep, youthful love
with a prideful moon
and allows itself to be pulled,
sifting with murmurs of lust
around the man's feet,
in terrestrial tides
of ecstasy
by her infinite dance.
Yes, he wondered
walking the packed earth
like so many before
if with a simple,
unforeseen turn
he could depart
the rolling hills of normalcy
and stroll instead
through the valley of a dream.
-
A minuscule child
eyes dark with focus
arms splayed as if to embrace
the air in front of him
walks
step by step
breath by breath
from one end
of a sparkling razor blade
to another.
A larger boy
lips pressed
with apprehension
disturbs the teetering journey
to make an initial attempt
at removing the blonde prairie
of foreign,
wiry grass
from his quivering chin
sending the child soaring
to gaze
at his surprised reflection
in the glimmering porcelain
of a curved bathroom sink.
There he plays
humming with innocence
amongst the falling stubble
which becomes an itchy bed
and the turgid water
serving
as a soapy pool.
The boy sniffs
his father's chalky deodorant
with raised eyebrows
and nervous frown
as the child laughs
and allows the musky perfume
to wash over him.
As the boy slicks his hair
with experimental
searching fingers
the child begins
a rollicking backstroke
through white islands
of shaving cream
gazing towards the giant above
yet unable to escape
when its fingers
depress the sink's plunger
initiating a vortex
of roiling, grey water
sucked towards oblivion.
And as the child disappears
with a helpless cry
the boy walks hopefully
through the doorway,
towards his first hint of manhood.
-
Laying upon an anonymous shore
the world will not cease singing
shouting
dancing
as if to willfully counteract
purposeful efforts
towards sleep
towards dreams-
press mute, mute
blind fingers searching.
And now it is shaking
trembling
unable to contain
its own vitality
bursting
with screams from the north
hope from the south
tears from the east
and sin from the west-
press mute, mute
mouths forming
silent words in air.
And still the script
runs on, the masses
holding hands over ears
drowning in the silence
of the pipe,
the needle
shutting dry eyes
to be woken by policemen
or angels-
press mute, mute
as the oceans overflow
with ice and tears.
And we sit, scared
to add to the cacophony
that our voice
a singe, whispered syllable
may be the straw
breaking the world
to noisy chaos.
So much safer
to swim in silence,
in fantasy,
withdrawn to a secure
world of lights-
press mute, mute
or speak in bold color
before there is nothing left to say.
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